Princess cut

This article is about the diamond cut. For the hair cut, see hime cut.

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The Princess cut is the second most popular cut shape for diamonds and accentuates a diamond's fire rather than its luster. The top of the diamond is cut in a square shape and the overall shape is similar to that of a pyramid. The princess cut is a relatively new diamond cut, having been created in the 1970s. It has gained in popularity in recent years as a more distinctive alternative to the more popular round brilliant cut, in which the top of diamond is cut in a round circle and bottom forms a point like a cone. The diameter of the princess cut is usually smaller than that of a round cut with the same carat weight, and the length is usually longer than that of a round cut. The princess cut is sometimes referred to as a square modified brilliant, as it combines the brilliance of a round cut with an overall square or rectangular appearance. A princess cut diamond does sacrifice some brilliance in order to have its unique square shape however.

The square princess cut diamond is usually less expensive than round brilliant cut diamonds of the same carat weight because a diamond cutter usually does not need to shave off as much diamond weight from their rough diamond. The ability to retain more crystal weight makes this shape popular amongst diamond cutters. When making a princess cut diamond from a rough stone they can usually make it at a higher carat weight than if they were to make a round brilliant diamond instead. The demand for round brilliant diamonds is generally greater than the demand for a princess cut diamond as well. However, the consumer often equates a diamond's diameter with its size and since the diameter of the princess cut diamond is usually smaller than the round cut, a princess cut diamond of the same diameter as a round cut will generally have a higher carat weight and may actually cost more.

Accredited Gem Appraisers (AGA) and American Gem Society Laboratory (AGSL) and European Gem Laboratories-USA (EGL-USA) are currently the only labs that grades the Princess cut for Light Return. An AGS cut grade of "0" is the highest grade and an AGA or EGL "EX" is also the highest grade. These are considered "ideal" princess cut diamonds. Such a diamond demands a price premium over other princess cut diamonds because it has better light performance. Generally the best princess cut diamonds will have a table of 62%-68%, crown height of 10%-15%, and a total depth of 64%-75%.

The Princess Cut was originally created by Israel Itzkowitz in 1979 at Ambar Diamonds in Los Angeles. Three years of optical research yielded a square stone from the girdle up, with faceting similar to that of a round brilliant cut from the girdle down. This provided for the fire and brilliance of the Princess cut.